Jan 30

Medellin

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The “City of Eternal Springs”  has its own unique character and has made a big turnaround since its notorious days as the center of Colombia’s drug trade.

With Pablo Escobar and company now a part of Medellin’s history, the streets are safe again, you can find easy access to most parts of the city. Although drugs are no longer the dominant economy of trade, the city has managed to build up other commercial and industrial interests (mainly textiles and cut flowers) , and even has a fantastic subway.

The town was founded in 1675 and in its early days consisted of individual haciendas that later became the basis for the many beautiful suburbs that surround the city center.. Neighborhoods are infused with winding streets and much greenery. The entire city is surrounded by lush mountains that harbor quaint pueblos and weekend getaways.

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We stayed in the section of town known as Poblado, and each day we travelled by the metro in to the heart of the city. This vibrant city has many attractions which we tried to squeeze in during our short time here. The tourist information told us we would need at least a week. We spent the days visiting the museum, cable cars and parks., truly enjoyed this modern city.

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World famous artist, Fernando Botero’s painting of Pablo Escobar.

Jan 27

Cartagena

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A fairytale city of romance, legends and sheer beauty, Cartagena de Indias is an addictive place that can be hard to escape. Routine sightseeing tours won’t do it justice so you have to throw away the checklist of museums and instead just stroll through Cartagena’s maze of cobbled alleys, where enormous  balconies are shrouded in Bougainvillea and massive churches cast their shadow across leafy plazas.

Founded in 1533, Cartagena swiftly blossomed into the main Spanish port on the Caribbean coast  and the gateway to the north of the continent. Treasure plundered from the indigenous people was stored her until the galleons were able to ship it back to Spain. As such it became a tempting target for pirates and, in the 16th century alone it suffered 5 dreadful sieges, the best know of which was let by Sir Francis Drake in 1586.

In response to pirate attacks the Spaniards decided to make Cartagena impregnable port and constructed elaborate walls encircling the town, and a chain of forts these fortifications helped save Cartagena from subsequent attacks.

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After a 4 hour bus trip we arrived in this beautiful city to start our inland travel. We will be staying in hostels, farms and inexpensive hotels as we travel around. Next we will do a 14 hour overnight trip to Medellin.

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Jan 09

Settling into to Colombian Lifestyle

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                                   View of the Marina, from the balcony

Leading up to the holidays, the winds increased as they usually do in this part of the world, so there wasn’t even white clouds in the sky. It was going to be a green Christmas.

Every place we visited, we have met very interesting people who we have became good friends with. Our first evening here we met Danny, a man who is visiting his son Stewart and his family. Many nights we meet him on the patio to watch the sunset, and play dominoes, always an exciting time of the day. Stewart, has welcomed us into his home, and at least twice a week we get together for what has become to be known as Curry Night on Thursdays and roast beef night on Sundays. We enjoy his company and his cooking. You never know who will drop in. Some times the table is full but Stewart always makes room for more. He’s a good man even though he talks funny…..LOL.  My contribution to the roast beef nights, are usually Carrot cake. They seem to love it, so maybe we will keep getting invited. Natalie; is Stewarts and Yuris’ daughter, she is very interested in baking, so I have shared my recipe with her so she can continue to bake her favourite cake when I  leave. She is a natural.

 

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                                      Dominoes on the marina patio

  The view from their terrace has a 360o view of the city below. A relaxing place to spend time on land.

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                             Looking east over the Sierra Nevadas

                                

    Ineke and Mike, aboard svConari, are three year members of the Stewarts curry club. They sailed in three years ago and have never left. Its home for them for six months away from England’s’ cold winter. They are a wealth of information, on where to get products or services in Santa Marta. They know, and have traveled most of Colombia. Every boat that comes in, is sent to them. They provide a great service. The marina should be paying them. Great people with amazing stories of their travels, all over the world.

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New Years Eve we decided to go out for dinner and maybe some dancing. Here in Santa Marta the community spend the evening at home with their families. A large group from the marina went out. Most of the restaurants were closed and the others had waiting lists. We finally got seated. The restaurant had to borrow tables and chairs from a closed restaurant to accommodate us. After a few drinks we ordered dinner, the power in the area went out, no dinner for us. We walked around town till almost midnight before we found a burger place on the pier that could serve us. Happy New year was over a burger, a very good one at that. We all headed back to our boats. We learned later…….. the parties don’t start till 1am.       

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We have made so many friends, and I’m sure we will make many more it will be hard to sail on.

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Jan 04

Minca, In the Sierra Nevadas

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The days on the Caribbean coast have been sweltering with very little wind, so the time was right to visit the mountains which surround the northern coast. We met our driver at the office, and after paying the equivalent of about $4, we were assigned a jeep carrying 8 passengers, we set off for the high country.

Minca, a small town nestled into the side of the mountain, lying approximately 14 miles away from the big city, takes about 35 minutes to reach. The area has many things to do with nature all around. Motorcycles, known as Moto T’s are waiting to take you to whatever adventure you choose. Swimming in the cool streams, hiking to the waterfall, or bird watching are the main activities. There is also a coffee plantation or a brewery offering tours, we chose to walk to Marinka waterfalls, a 1 hour hike through the rainforest.

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Nov 03

Getting to know Santa Marta

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Santa Marta was the 1st Spanish settlement in the Americas, thus making it the oldest city on the continent. Tucked below the worlds highest mountains, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta with snowy peaks, Pico Simon Bolivar (18700 ft.) and Pico Cristobal Colon, 26 miles from the sea shore combined with the Caribbean sea at it’s feet this place is very unique of its kind. These mountains are home to indigenous peoples such as the Arhuacos, Koguis, Wiwas, and the Kankuamos. The energetic city with its productive harbour, colonial architecture, fun night life, interesting history, and too many things to do, will result in a longer stay than planned.

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The only risk here, is…………..We might never want to leave.

Oct 21

Santa Marta, Colombia

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First off, let me say that the internet, or more the lack of internet has not been good to us lately.

We had planned to leave Aruba on the Saturday, October 15th, but the wind changed and was gusting 25 knots, a little too high for our first passage of the season. The Colombian coast is considered one of the worst passages in the world for sailors.  It was forecasted to lessen, so we waited til Sunday. Everything depends on the wind and the direction which it’s coming from, so it seemed that we were checking the forecast every hour. We also had the help, that it was a full moon making it easier to see.

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After completing some last minute chores, we moved over to the town dock to deal with the officials. When the paperwork was finished we were given 1 hour to leave, we were ready and just wanted to get underway. Off we set, the last islands of Venezuela 57 miles to the west, which we needed to go around, in the dark. As we closed in on the coast of Colombia we were give lightning show, with bolts streaking across the sky. 10 miles out, we stayed perfectly dry.

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Snapshot 1 Dolphin (10-20-2016 9-32 PM)

(Taken from Video)

Except for some countercurrent and wind off the headlands we had a nice sail all the way til the last island coming into Santa Marta Bay. There we  met waves coming directly at us with high winds. Our speed slowed down to less than  2 knots, making little headway, we only hoped that we could make it in before dark.

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The process of checking onto Colombia ended up being a 2 day affair, with us being confined to the marina property. The cruisers here had scheduled a BBQ, but the rain changed the plans. We did attend, sitting with new friend under a small shelter.

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This morning we given the green light to go to town, mostly to stock up on food so off we went with map in hand to find the the stores.

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We treated ourselves to a breakfast at a Panaderia (Bakery), 2 empanadas, Potato roll, a piece of something like a pizza, 2 Macaroons, washed down with beer………total price, less than $10 Canadian. Very easy on the monthly expenses to stay here. In the upcoming weeks we plan on doing more exploring, it seems to be a beautiful country.

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This will be our home for the next 4 to 6 months while we explore the interior of the country.

Oct 04

Hurricane Mathew

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We have had quite the week. After cleaning, sanding, and painting the bottom of  Mistress we were advised that it would be safer if we stayed out of the water till hurricane Mathew blew past. It has been approx. 150 years since a hurricane passed over Aruba, so this was a very rare occurrence, and needed to be taken seriously. The marina was flooded with calls to lift resident boats out of the water. Two were spend securing boats.

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As the storm got near the sky filled with clouds and the wind increased. The marina yard came to life with banging halyards and the sound of whistling rigging thank God for ear plugs. With the lack of sun, and the need to shut down the wind generator we set up an extension cord to power our fridge.tucked in behind a huge power boat with a concrete block tied to the predicted wind ward side we faired very well.

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The eye passed over us around 12 midnight. We got  the expected rain, thunder, and lighting, but the wind gusts were not as bad as forecasts. The ground is saturated with water causing the jack-stands sink. It is still 100% cloud cover in the sky, but temps still at 85 degrees.

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We got a call from friends in the bay. Down the street from the marina they had a derelict boat drift into them during the night. With the help of another cruiser we were able to move it back to a safer distance closer to the mangroves.

I wish I could say that hurricane Mathew was going to blow itself out over the sea, but it is predicted to turn northward and threaten more Islands. Strange how it usually targets the places with the least amount of resources.

We can only pray for them.

Sep 26

Back in Aruba

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After spending a great summer visiting family and friends we are glad to be back in Aruba. We are going to miss all our Grandkids, including the teenager that didn’t spend any time with us. We love you, but we live a sailors life. We’re also going to miss our 4 legged kids, Bailey and Hank.

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The first day, we still had a rental car ( air-conditioned), we did all the running around getting supplies and groceries to restock the boat. When we left, we stripped the lockers bare to ward off a infestation of critters. In the hot, windy days here, Mistress came through a little bit dustier but no mold at all inside. Very Good. We did have for the second time, problems with the stove, the solenoid an item which controls the gas, just crumbled away. Funny, how they make things meant for a boat that can’t handle what the sea throws at it.

The Anti-fouling paint here is almost $500.00 American. a gallon so we picked a local favourite at 1/2 the price, we use 2 gallons. Early on the 3rd day we started our maintenance to get the boat ready to go back in the water.  In the 95 degree weather it is slow going, water comes out your pores as fast as you can ingest it. I never drank so much water in my life., beer being my fluid of choice which only makes you feel sick.

We sanded the hull ,applied 2 coats of Anti-fouling, (everything will be smooth under the water), then scrubbed all the salt off before putting on 2 coats of wax. A great workout.

Launch Day ……..Tomorrow.

 

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Jun 17

Summer in Aruba

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It is summer here in Aruba, the cruise ships are arriving less frequent, the tourist season is coming to a close, the beaches are deserted except for the pigeons. The temperatures are climbing, fishing season is starting, it is an exciting time of year.

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We will be storing Mistress on the hard while we fly home to visit family and friends.  We’ve never used this type of equipment , a tractor and cradle, but everything went smoothly. The staff here at Varadero Marina, are very knowledgeable, they did a great job.

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Putting a boat away, and packing things is hard work, so we treated ourselves, rented a car and set off to see the windward side of the island. The landscape is much like a dessert, but absolutely stunning. The waves pound on to the shore, so there are no big hotels, yet it is the most beautiful part of the island. People from all over the world visit and build a small cairn out of the rocks they find to mark their time spent here.

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The Natural Bridge

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Cairns along the shore

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Old Gold Mining Smelter with a modern day Canteen

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Almost every morning has a red sky, but it very seldom rains

Jun 17

Waiting for Haul-out

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Our dinghy got the best of us, leaking air and having to pump it up every 4 hours or so, became one big pain in the butt. We would go to town worrying the whole time that by the time we got back, the dinghy and motor would be on the bottom and we would have no way to get home. We gave in and moved to the marina. It has been almost 4 years since we’ve tied up to a dock, so we were a bit nervous going in. We  did a scouting run in the dinghy, stopping in to the office to get details about depth, so all worked out well. One of the crew members fell off the bow sprit attempting to step onto the dock, causing a few minutes of excitement but other than that…..Piece of Cake.       The person at the helm was not blamed for incident, crew member who fell had a sore back with numerous bruises ( could have been worse), but got the promise of a massage.

Seems all you do when in a marina is clean, fix things, and then clean some more. Mistress has never been this clean in 4 years. Water is just a tap that you turn on, and like magic, out it flows. We’ve cleaned the boat stem to stern, top to bottom.

We have toured the island, going to see the national park and the caves which they are famous for. The countryside is barren, much like a dessert but absolutely amazing, everywhere you look it’s beautiful. Even the creatures seemed to be as curious about us as we are of them.

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(California Lighthouse, northern end)

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Petroglyphs from1600s

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The only downfall of staying in the marina, is there is only 2 ways to town, 3 miles away. There is a bus which means you have to get up early to catch the 6:15am or the 7:15am run, or use Shanks’ Mare ( walk ), which we do quite often. We follow the fence for the airport all the way around, then along the beach to town. We then usually catch the afternoon bus back loaded down with groceries.  The other day we got to town, found out it was a holiday, The Kings Birthday so just watched the festivities.

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This is a long week-end here, so residents are setting up tents on the beach so their families can spend time together.

If we ever think of settling down some where, and become “ Dirt Dwellers” again, there are a few fixer uppers to consider. This one not a 1/4 mile from the ocean.

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