Dec 29

Puerto Escoses

Number of View: 0

Image00002

In 1698 William Patterson, a cofounder of the bank of England, organized and financed an expedition to found a settlement in the bay of Puerto Escoses. The 1300 Scots who built Fort Andrew, of which today only ruins remain, ender up having a terrible time, faced with starvation and disease. In the end the project became a fiasco and after less than two years in the Darien, region those that remained alive returned to Scotland. Just after they left, a fleet with reinforcements arrived from Scotland and made a second attempt to survive. They suffered the same problems as the predecessors and Fort Andrew was given up for good in 1702. Of the nearly 3000 people involved, over 2000 died. Fort Andrew is hardly recognizable. This is the only attempt the Scots ever made to colonize in America.

Image00001       Image00005

Sooner or later it had to happen, Today was that day a bit stressful I guess I should have studied the chart more. I felt pretty confident we have 3 navigation programs 2 guide books, we should be able to get around the islands  with out running aground. Nope as we headed between point of land and a small island where at least 30 men in Cayucos were  fishing. we started to see bottom. When I checked the depth it said 10ft. I slowed down and continued on 9,8,7,6 checked chart plotted said we are in the right place. Mistress needs 5ft 7in shallow on both sides hard to turn around. Left or right. I chose left we came to a stop, the keel in a sand bar. A  little while later an older guy in a dug out canoe came paddling over to us. I’m sure the first thing  he said is “ Its shallow here.” He spoke no English but a little Spanish I spoke no Kuna so Spanish it would be. We decided to put out a stern anchor line and winch ourselves free. We put our spare anchor line out the back of the boat, then into the dinghy. The plan was to row out to deep water then drop the anchor. Once it was set we would get to work. We did all this, which took about an hour then started winding the line became taut, so it must be doing something. Another small boat approached 2 young guys curious as to what was going on, some how they thought we had the anchor stuck not really paying attention to them they jumped in the water and pulled the anchor out of the bottom. They then took the anchor of tied the line on there boat and attempted to pull us off, with Mistress in reverse and them pulling we started having some success. Then suddenly everything stopped, the rope was around the prop. Now I think felt really bad, we were sick to our stomachs. They dove back in the water and started unwinding the rope some needed to be cut out. Another motorboat approached, we were becoming the local attraction. After 1 1/2 hours of diving, cutting,  and pulling fibers out of the shaft we finally had it clean again. By now it was in the afternoon, the tide was going down we were settling more into the sand, constantly boats of all sizes went by us to have a look, or offer words of encouragement in Kuna. We tried digging the sand around the keel til sundown. High tide was scheduled for around noon the next day. As it got darker the boat heeled more and more, listing 25 degrees on its side, bobbing gently it was like a funhouse inside, no level surface that we could sleep upon. At daybreak we put out the anchor again, and kept the line taught hoping the rising tide would pull us free. Every 15min we gave it a flew more turns. Around 11:30am we started moving slowly, the shell on the bottom which I had been staring at was now behind us. Suddenly we floated free  pulling on the anchor we moved to deep water but it seemed it was stuck a fishing boat came along the side of us with 4 men whom had earlier asked us for 500 to pull the boat off. We tried again to pull  the anchor it would not budge. we were drifting to shallow water again. One of the men wanted to dive down and lift it by hand. Too dangerous I told them to cut the line, they could have the anchor. I just wanted to get going. We headed toward an anchorage not far away to put the last days events behind us. As they say……. “Its all part of the adventure.”

Image00003

Image00006  Image00004

Image00007

Dec 22

Puerto Perme’

Number of View: 0

Image00014

As we started to travel, we moved just 8 miles away from where we checked in to a small harbour called Puerto Perme it is a small pocket, protected from all sides with a reef and a beach. It looks just like a postcard. We enjoyed watching the pelicans follow the dug out canoas around the bay, while the boys fished with nets. seems like the men come  out at sunrise and the young boys fish in the afternoon. By all the laughter we heard, it is as much fun as it is work.

There is a Kuna village but we didn’t visit, we figured they don’t get many boats stopping here, it would seem like we are being nosey. We did go the beach, and sit in the shallow water attempting to cool off. Later in the evening we seen a pelican going across the top of the water at a strange angle when we realized the carcass was in the mouth of a swimming crocodile , just 20 feet in front of our boat.       THERE GOES THE SWIMMING!!!!

 

Image00012  Image00010

Image00009  Image00011

Image00013  Image00010

Dec 08

Leg 1, To San Blas

Number of View: 0

Image00001 

Image00002

  We left Santa Marta at first light , having woke up at 6am. The winds were forecast to be light , so we knew it would be a motor-sail to Puerto Velero, 57 nm. SW along the coast.

Our friends Ineke and Mike were stationed at the end of the pier to wave us farewell.

Santa Marta has been a nice stop, we  are going to miss it. From here we have travelled all through Colombia, on their inexpensive transportation system.

Our last days have been busy, provisioning, and getting ready to travel. Our fridge was not getting cold, but under Mikes instructions and use of his hoses, we added more Freon, which solved the problem. With everything stowed away, our forward Vee berth packed with bags of water, and other odds and ends, we left the marina.

It felt great to be back on the water again, after staying 2 days 0ver our one year visa the wind and the waves felt so relaxing.

Image00004  Image00005

Image00003  Image00008

About 5 miles out we had the Armada Nacional Coast Guard come along side, and  we were asked to stop, they wanted to inspect our vessel. Two officers along with their dog boarded Mistress than sat in the cockpit checking our documents. In the lumpy conditions, they cut the visit short, wished us a good trip, then returned to the inflatable. Soon after we discovered that our fridge was not working, again the temp soaring to almost 80. All our frozen and vacuum pack meats were spoiling. where we are headed to, the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama have very few stores. We are planning to stay one month, so the meat in the fridge was important.

The Magdalena river which travels from the south of the country and empties into the ocean at Barranquilla is fast flowing and littered with debris. Everything from household refuse,to vegetation to whole tree trunks come floating out just west of the city. We had to keep a good look out, and zig zag around the piles, some the size of a small Island. If we ran into one of these it would have stopped us dead in our tracks in the swells they were quite hard to see. It was a beautiful sunset, but our hopes of making it to the anchorage by dark ended watching the sun sink on the horizon.

We rounded Punta Hermosa in the dark, moonless night then followed the lighted channel to the anchorage other than a fisherman checking his net, we were the only boat there it was 8 30 pm, after our 12hr journey, we would tackle the fridge problem in the morning.

Turns out it was an easy fix, we changed the electrical control module, which luckily we had, but it meant we would have to stop in Cartagena to buy more meat.  Image00009 

   Image00011  Image00013

Image00012

Oct 04

Back in Santa Marta, 2017

Number of View: 0

Image00001

We are back in Santa Marta, after a long summer with our family and friends. Wished we could have spent more time with each and everyone of you, but we had a lot to deal with. From the birth of a Grand-Son to the loss of a Parent, all I can say is, we had our hands full.

We had been worried about Mistress, our home, since the middle of the summer. We couldn’t get in contact with the marina, which only added to the stress. Friends here checked on her and reported that she was doing well, and looked good from the outside.

After a comfortable flight, even carried by Avianca crew, who were on strike, we arrived back at the marina early in the evening. It had been raining, the humidity around 80%, we will need to acclimatize once again. 

The strong sun has burnt the bright work, dust everywhere including inside the cabin, we need to clean…….Stem to Stern…….but first, clear a spot to sleep.  Tomorrow.

Image00001  Image00002

Image00006

Image00007  Image00008

Image00004  Image00005

Image00003  Image00009

We did have a couple of residents move in while we were gone, a crab, and some type of animal that just left a mess. Both have moved on. We also had a can of beer, that we been stowing since we started this journey to offer to King Neptune. Sadly, it exploded in the heat.

Image00015  Image00016

Image00012

Seems like the local grocery store knew we were coming, it was decorated, and stocked up with beer and skids of eggs ( something I always find funny, unrefrigerated).

Image00010  Image00011

Image00004  Image00005

Image00002  Image00003

Image00001 

Nice to be back, now the task of getting ready to sail toward the San Blas Islands, and to mainland Panama.

May 12

Carnival 2017, Barranquilla, Colombia

Number of View: 0

Image00012

The Carnival of Barranquilla is without a doubt the most famous and internationally recognized event in Colombia. Eagerly awaited by the Colombians and all the people that want to discover and enjoy a cultural and folkloric event, the visiting crowd will encounter  activities and parades full of cultural diversity, happiness, joy and of course music. The Carnival of Barranquilla is the third biggest Carnival after the one of Rio de Janeiro and Venice. Every year, the Carnival begins 4 days before the Holy Wednesday while the most important day takes place on Saturday with the famous battle of flowers. During the battle, afro-indigenous dancers dance el Torito, el Diablo, la Conga (Congolese tango) and the Pilanderas. The event finishes with the symbolic funeral of “Joselito Carnival”.

Image00011  Image00006

   Image00007   Image00014 

To get into the true spirit of Carnival, you must dress in party clothes, it also might save you from being foamed ……..Gringo.!!! 

Image00005  Image00006

Image00007

While Barranquilla’s carnaval may lack the publicity of it’s Brazilian cousin, it’s known to be just as spectacular. The Colombian carnaval takes place 40 days before Easter, this years carnaval takes place from February 25th-28th, 2017.

Starting as a muddle of pagan, catholic, and other ethnic festivities, it has come a long way from it’s humble roots. The Barranquilla carnaval is currently the second largest carnival in the world drawing over 500,000 visitors every year.

It has been declared by UNESCO to be a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. For those travelers who aren’t convinced by those impressive facts the bold slogan should change your mind, “Quien lo vive, es quien lo goza” (Those who live are those who enjoy it).

Image00015

Image00008  Image00010

Image00009

Image00013    Image00016

Image00017  Image00018  Image00005

People of all ages participate in Parade.

Image00019  Image00020

  Image00002  Image00001 

Image00003  Image00004

The Greatest Party.

Also visit us on Youtube….Tutty Lee

http://www.patreon.com/svMistress

 

Apr 11

Bucaramanga, Parque National del Chicamocha

Number of View: 0

Image00001

We took the bus out of a small bus station in San Gil, to an area known to have similarities to the Grand Canyon, in the U.S.. Parque Nacional del Chicamocha opened in 2006, from it’s 360o look out,  provides views of the majestic canyon. We chose to take the teleferico (cable car), 6.3 km which descends to the base of the canyon, then ascends to the top of the opposite rim, Mesaa de los Santos. The ride takes 22 minute, one way. They also offer paragliding for those that want to soar over the canyon below.  

Image00014  Image00015

Image00016  Image00017

Image00002

Image00003  Image00004

Image00005

Image00010  Image00012

Image00009

Image00006  Image00007

After lunch, everything closes for lunch, we caught the first cable car so we could spend some time in the waterpark to cool off. It was the middle of the week, but I’m sure, on week ends this place is packed.

Image00020

After a relaxing afternoon, a lady that works in the ticket booth went out to the highway, and flagged down a passing bus., We needed to travel into the city of Bucaramanga , where we could get a bus back to Santa Marta. Our land excursion coming to an end. 

Image00018  Image00019

Mar 24

Villa de Leyva, Colombia

Number of View: 0

Image00010

One of the most beautiful colonial towns in all of Colombia, is Villa de Leyva. With it’s cobblestone roads and whitewashed buildings, is a photographers dream.

Founded in 1572, it seems to be frozen in time, when it was originally a retreat for military officers, clergy, and nobility. The Tele-novela ( soap opera) Zorro: La Espalda y La Rosa was filmed here, bringing publicity to the city.

Image00014  Image00013

Image00016  Image00017

Image00018

Image00019  Image00002

  Image00009  Image00005

Image00020  Image00025

After walking through the town we rented bikes to tour the countryside.

Image00023

Image00021  Image00022

Image00012

Mar 11

Bogota de Santa Fe, Colombia

Number of View: 0

Even though this vibrant city is the capital, we didn’t think we would spend much time here. Known for it’s huge traffic jams which start early in the morning the city didn’t seem very inviting. We took a cab to the historic center , known as Candelaria  and walked around the preserved colonial buildings that house museums, restaurants, hotels, and bars amid the preserved 300 year old homes. Even though large urban centers is not our cup of tea, we are glad we took the time to spend some time , and  thoroughly enjoyed our time spent here.

Image00001 

Image00007  Image00001Image00003Image00006  Image00005

Image00013  Image00012

Image00008

Image00009  Image00014

Image00011  Image00010

We took a bus from the north end of the city,  to the most popular day trip from Bogota to the small town of Zipaquira, 50 km. away. Here we found one of Colombia’s greatest architectural achievements, an underground cathedral carved out of salt, 180 meters below the surface, that can hold up to 10,000 people. Built by 147 workers,  it took 4 years to complete. The men were not paid for their work until the tours started generating income, they now earn a commission. Last year this attraction gave more than 5 million dollars to the town. who have used the funds to build universities.

Image00006

Look closely…..those are people standing near the alter

Image00008  Image00009

Image00012  Image00014

Image00011

Image00010 Image00004

Underground salt river with traces of gold

 Image00013

A salt carving in the wall of the tunnel

Mar 04

San Agustin

Number of View: 0

Image00029

Getting to San Agustin was not easy, we travelled on a bumpy dirt road for approximatly 4 hours, the only road from Popayan, only 136 km. away. Large commercial trucks also use this same road so at times it becomes quite congested. We were glad when we arrived in town and were met at the small bus station by the town tour guide who directed us to the nearest grocery store, then arranged a special cab to take us to our hostel, high in the mountains where normal cabs don’t go. Most taxi’s are small compact cars that have a difficult time with 4 travellers with backpacks.

Our hostel, Pachamama, turned to be a picturesque location overlooking the valley below surrounded by coffee and fruit trees. I think the ducks and chickens in this country have insomnia, making noise all hours of the night but we had very comfortable rooms with a hearty breakfast each morning.

Image00033  Image00030

Image00003

Image00032  Image00031

Image00039  Image00040

Image00034  Image00041

We could easily walk to town, going down the mountain was OK, coming up we stopped only to be passed by the locals who smiled as they walked by. Horses are  the main way to get around and the best to explore the countryside, but walking is also enjoyable in the fresh mountain air.

Image00036

Image00035  Image00037

Five thousand years ago this area was inhabited by two indigenous groups that lived near San Agustin. Very little is known about them, they had no written language and had disappeared before the Europeans arrived.

They left behind more than 500 statues scattered in the hills around here, along with a number of tombs. This is the most important archeological site in Colombia, and the  government has done a fantastic job in preserving these locations, and takes pride in displaying them to the world.

Image00016

Image00018  Image00023

Image00014  Image00017

Image00013  Image00014Image00002

Feb 26

Popayan

Number of View: 0

Image00024

This small colonial city is famous for it’s chalk-like facades( its nickname is “ La Ciudad Blanca, or The White City”), and is second only to Cartagena as Colombia’s most impressive colonial settlement. It sits beneath towering mountains in the Valle de Pubenza, and for hundreds of years was  the capital of southern Colombia, before Cali overtook it.

The town was founded in 1537by Sebastian de Belalcazar, and became an important stopping point on the road to Quito, Ecuador. It’s mild climate attracted wealthy families from the sugar haciendas of the hot Valle de Cauca region. In the 17th century they began building mansions, schools, and several imposing churches and monasteries.

In march 1983, moments before the much celebrated Maundy Thursday religious procession was set to depart, a violent earthquake shook the town, caving in the cathedral’s roof and killing hundreds. Little damage is visible today.

The city has numerous universities and during the day the streets are filled with students.

Image00025  Image00026

Image00028   Image00027

Image00030  Image00029

Image00037  Image00033

Image00039

Forty-five kilometers east of Popayan along an unpaved road to La Plata lies a 830 sq/km National Park ( Resguardo Indigena Purace ). The vast majority of the park lies within the reguardo ( official territory ) of the Purace indigenous group.

At this time , the indigenous community has taken control of the park following a dispute with the national government over it’s management. If you ask at any national park or official government tourist office they will tell you that the park is closed, however the community is still accepting visitors and is dedicated to expanding it’s fledgling ecotourism program. In addition to an entrance fee, each group is required to hire an indigenous guide to explore the park.

Image00009

We had every intention to climb to the top of the volcano, I just wished we had done more research. After stopping at the small village, where our guides loaded supplies and rode in the back of the pick-up to a cabin at the start of the trail. They had us hold hands and asked the gods for guidance and protection so we would be safe walking to the summit to view the volcano.

The wind was howling and the temperature must have been hovering around zero, the altitude stealing our breath. It wasn’t meant to be, one by one we gave up.

Image00004  Image00008

Image00003  Image00006

Image00010

Our 2 guides eager to show us there land, told us they wanted us to see their most sacred area where we could see, and get close to Condors, noted to be the largest birds of the world. What started out with just 1 mating pair has become quite a success. Their wings spanning 10 feet or more as they glide serenely above Colombia’s Andes, condors are majestic physical specimens. They have been important symbols here since pre-colonial times, when indigenous tribes saw them as messengers of the gods and harbingers of good fortune.

Image00022  Image00023

Image00011

Check out the YouTube video on Condors

https://youtu.be/TfzUzUe7dTo

Image00017  Image00016

Image00018  Image00019

We were also were shown the Termales de San Juan, which are on a high mountain plain (3200m), what an amazing area. These hot springs can not be bathed in due to the heat and the high acid content with the smell of rotten eggs.

Image00021  Image00026

Image00028  Image00029

Image00027  Image00030

Image00031